Iceland: Day Four

Woke up and, as predicted, didn't feel like rushing off to Jokulsarlon, it's such a long drive along Iceland's southern coast.  Instead, I decided to buy a map of SW Iceland and drive the Reykjanes peninsula.

OK, I am gonna say it:  a lot of it looks like a blend of different parts of Oregon.  The coast was especially familiar.  Even the non-moss-covered lava fields were remarkakably similar to those in Oregon.  But there is something about exploring such an expansive and even lonely place like Iceland that makes it way cooler.

The first half of the peninsula was pretty tame... not boring, but not much to see.  Once I started up the Southen part it got better, almost unexpectedly.  I knew I was looking for a geothermal field but, on the way, I crossed the continental divide (and was a total nerd about it).  Before in Silfra/Þengvillir I was in the divide too, but here the divide is about 5 meters apart.  I spent about 30 minutes playing on the fun rock formations and jumping off them into the sand before continuing on.

Not too far down the road I noticed a shape I had been looking for; a cone, close to the road.  Just a short hike off the road were two decrepit-looking shield volcanoes.  Neither was more than about 100 meters tall, so I decided to hike up one.  I had this longing to see the caldera of a volcano.  Turned out to be a very uneventful thing, but the hike was nice, and it was still cool to be up on this old volcano.  I think I had read that this particular lava flow was from the 13th century, so it's probably fair to assume the same of the cone.

After that, I followed the steam I'd seen from the road - assuming this would take me to the geothermal field I so desperately wanted to see.  But I couldn't help but be distracted by the vast field of rack drying fish.  This food is beloved by the Icelanders, and isn't too bad.  I spent a few minutes checking it out... pretty gross to see, hopefully the grossness of it comes across in the pictures.

After that additional sidetrack, I resolved to head straight to the geothermal field.  Which I did.  My trusty rental car got me down a rutted and rugged offroad to where I thought I needed to be.  Turns out I was actually on the wrong side of a large cooling pond for the geothermal plant.  It was still cool to see though, because it was the same opalescent eerie blue that you see in the photos for the Blue Lagoon.  Though, this water was extremely cold.  Snapped a few pictures and plotted a course around the pond to the geothermal stuff in the distance.

I made it.  Let me just say - SO EFFING WORTH IT.  Definitely the coolest thing I have seen so far in Iceland.  It was an area around the size of a rugby pitch with various pools of steaming explosive churning water, bubbling mud pots, open vents (some steaming, some whistling, some silent). All kinds of crazy colours.  And the smell... was an intense sulfur smell, like I was in a field of burning fireworks.  I took a bunch of pictures, but I can't imagine any of them doing any justice to the actual experience.  I was in complete awe.  I looked at every thing I could.  Probably got too close to some of them, but I couldn't help it.  I was the only person there... I had free reign!

Once I drug myself away from the geothermal awesomeness, I wanted to take a short drive to check out what Lonely Planet described as some of the most desolate cliffs ever.  I don't know how I feel about that description.  They were certainly severe and flanked by a big lava flow, but I don't know if they were the most desolate thing I've seen. (Edit:  Turns out, the most desolate thing I've seen was the bleak and lifeless field of sand between Vik and Jokulsarlon).

Decided to head up from the peninsula and check out Geysir and Gulfoss.  Really taking advantage of these 18 hour days.  On the way, I saw the signs for the Blue Lagoon.  It was on the list, and I am always up for a swim.  Didn't take much convincing.

Blue Lagoon is an entirely manufactured tourist destination.  But it is very nice, and a lot safer than just jumping in a hot spring. Because I was there alone, I didn't stay as long as I would have with company.  But I probably floated around for an hour and a half.  Took some pictures too.  Then it was off to Geysir.

The drive to Geysir was long, probably 2.5 hours.  On the way, I drove across the valley from Eyjafallajokull, but I couldn't see it because of the cloud cover.  Boo.  There were several other quick photo stops along the way.  Another cone I hiked up into, this time the caldera was filled with water.  And it was much bigger.

The actual Geysir, the namesake for all other geysers, doesn't really erupt anymore.  Apparently many years ago, people used to throw stuff into it to make it erupt, and now it is broken. The geyser that everyone goes to see is actually called Strokkur.  Not as cool of a name, but maybe a little bit funny?  :)

I saw it erupt as I was approaching, so I knew I had like 10-15 minutes to figure out the shot I wanted.  Fat chance.   Apparently today was a particularly active day.. it erupted less than 5 minutes later, and twice in a row.  Then about 10 minutes later it erupted three times in a row.  It worked out very well, because I was afraid I would have to be there for over an hour to get some good shots and also video.  There's nothing really to see except the geyser - especially not after seeing the amazing geothermal field on the peninsula.

About 10km up the road from Geysir is Gulfoss. Easily the most popular waterfall in Iceland.  The name means "gold waterfall" in Icelandic... no idea why.  It's defintiely not gold.  But it is totally amazing.  Definitely the most immense waterfall I have ever seen. Part of what makes it so breathtaking is that it is a double cascade. so the spray of water is coming from all angles.  Being there while parts were still frozen added to the ambiance.  I ran around like a child taking pictures and video.  Not sure if any of them really came out because the water spray was so intense, it kept getting on the lens. I always have the memory though, right?

After I got done goofing off around Gulfoss, I decided to head back to Reykjavik.  It was actually starting to get dark, and I figured I should be driving these roads while I could still see.  I was also getting hungry, and I had promised some Icelandic boys that I would meet them for dinner.

Frosti and his partner James recommended a pretty darn good Italian place downtown, I enjoyed the bread and lasagne, they enjoyed beer.  Apparently I had dawdled too long, and they ate without me.  Oops.  Still, they were great company, and after dinner we went for a walk around Reykjavik's city centre. An unexpected but quite enjoyable city tour.

After dinner and the walk, I headed home.  I was dead-set to drive to Jokulsarlon in the morning, and it was a long long drive.  Sleepy time.